Happy Holidays

Happy Holidays from Kyoto Japan. I hope everyone enjoyed whatever festival they celebrate at this time. I of the breed that celebrates Christmas celebrated a humble Japanese Christmas. What does that mean?

I went to class at one in the afternoon and finished my last class at six in the evening! Christmas in Japan really is like any other day in Japan. I can remember working at AEON and having to request Christmas day off. I usually connected it with the holiday on the 23rd (Emperor's birthday) to make a long holiday. It became longer with the New Year's holiday and weekends attached. I was able to spend a whole 10 days in the U.S.

Of course, everyone else in Japan is doing the same thing at the same time, so plane tickets were more than $1500 at a time when gas was still relatively cheap.

So, this year, Kintama the student did not go home for the holidays. This is the first time I have never taken a trip at this time, but with school work piling up and no income, it makes sense to stay put for once. What will I see in the next couple of days?

There are lots of different traditions carried out during the holidays. One of them is the eating of Osechi. It is a meal consisting of very Japanese looking things including anchovi-sized fish, sweetened egg (similar to the sushi variety), and much more. People used to make it with their families (girls help their moms while dad and brothers rest), but now it is cheaper and simpler to buy it at a supermarket.

After countdown on New Year's Eve, people will be heading to their local shrine to wish for good luck in the new year. I will be taking pictures...or trying to...

Also around this time, little kids are receiving monetary presents from their relatives. I would love to get a monetary present...

Shops offer grab bags. $100 a pop, but the value of the contents is guarenteed to be more than $100. You could luck out and get a lot of things you really wanted or you could be left with things you don't need. You won't know unless you put that $100 down.

Everyone will be relaxing. When I say everyone, I mean everyone. I will not be able to withdraw money from an ATM from the 1st until the 3rd because the banks are not open and no one will be available to maintain the ATMs.

It's a busy time of year, but I hope my first New Year's in Japan goes off well...

Happy New Year to all my few readers.

Mottainai: Purely Japanese?

Before I begin this entry, I would like to note that this is not an anti-Japanese Op/Ed by any means, but rather an examination of a concept that is overly repeated in Japanese society. This story matches quite well with a joke Michael Green, the Japan Chair of CSIS in DC told at a conference.

Three men, an American man, French man, and a Japanese man were asked to write a book about elephants. A year later, the American comes back with a book entitled, "How to Make Money Off Elephants with No Money Down and No Interest." The Frenchman's book was entitled, "How Elephants Make Love." The Japanese man's book was entitled, "What Elephants Think about the Japanese."

In the Japanese language and society, there is a word, mottainai, which roughly translates into the word waste in English. I say roughly translate because waste does not exactly equal this concept.

When Japanese people are young, just like most Americans, their parents make them eat every last bite of food on their plate. In Japan, the parents say that not doing so is mottainai. In America, people of my generation were told that they should eat their food because there were starving children in Africa and China (nobody would include China today...). The meaning of both stories is, "don't waste food."

This concept translates into other aspects of life in Japanese culture whether it is turning off the water when brushing your teeth or turning off the lights when you leave a room. If this sounds familiar to you, then you understand why I question whether this concept is purely Japanese. Our grandparents who lived during the depression reuse paper plates. When I say this to Japanese people, they respond by saying, "yeah, but do you have a single word for it like mottainai?" My response is, "do we need one?"

Upon a closer examination of Japanese lifestyle, there is nothing to be proud about as far as conservation. I don't have statistics, but their per/capita waste is right up with Americans and the rest of the Western "developed" world. That fact is true even though they use a lot of nuclear power which cuts down on CO2 emissions.

However, they have a fascination with individually packaged things. I bought marshmallows that were individually wrapped. When you go out to eat Japanese fastfood, you use disposable wooden chopsticks called waribashi. You walk down a block and you are likely to pass 2-3 convenience stores each stacked with food that will be thrown out at the end of the day. My Japanese development teacher here at school reminds students about that fact. Japan throws out enough food from convenience stores alone that could feed countless people. It's just the same as how bagel shops in the U.S. throw out all the unsold bagels after business hours...

I am not here to criticize Japan and its wasteful practices because, as an American, it would simply be a case of the pot calling the kettle black. It is also true that they have this universal concept wrapped up in one word.

Still, I think it is better to lead by action and not by word. It doesn't matter if you have 10 different words for snow if snow doesn't fall, so does it matter if you have a word for conservation when you don't conserve?

My hope for the next few years is that this latest financial crisis will lead to a new sense of what it means to conserve; that Americans, Japanese, and all of the developed world alike learn the value of each grain of rice or breadcrumb. Global warming and feeding the hungry go hand and hand in this regard. I hope we are able to make headways into each problem through conservation.

This video was a commercial that aired on MTV this year. They made a bad choice in songs (All I Need by Radiohead has nothing to do with child labor!!!), but the commercial is nonetheless touching.

Tako Balls 'till you drop

Yesterday, I took a day trip over to Osaka to do nothing in particular. I've been to Osaka 3 or 4 times in my life and have enjoyed every time I've been there. This time was no exception.

What is different about Osaka from other cities in Japan?

I usually describe the difference between the two places with one word: people. Anyone who has ever been to Tokyo will remember the zombie-like stares from people as they head to their next destination (probably some place related to work if not work). The stand orderly on the left side of the escalator as it carries them to endless humdrum of their life.

The only zombie I saw in Osaka was a crazy man that could speak a little English. He yelled at me as I was rounding the corner in my search for a good place to eat an Osaka favorite, kushi katsu.

Kushi katsu (whatever you like skewered and fried), takoyaki (octopus balls (it's ok to giggle)), okonomiyaki (flour, egg and various ingredients of your choosing) are some of the favorites that people have to eat when they go to Osaka. It is all summed up in the word kuidaore or eat till you drop. Kuidaore symbolizes the love for food that Osaka-ins possess. You're constantly reminded of it as you eat and eat in Osaka until you are about to drop.

I followed in this tradition by eating all the takoyaki I could going from my favorite place in Shin-Saibashi all the way to some place near Namba Station, hitting various places on the way. I topped it off with okonomiyaki from this place that always has a line everytime I go to Osaka. After a few hours of windowshopping, I was looking to cap off my day of Osaka eating with the aforementioned kushi katsu. We ate pork, bacon and asparagus, cheese and potato, cheese and mochi, some sort of fish, and squid. Each one cost around a buck, but the total was increased by the "table charge" since we ultimately chose an izakaya (pub that serves Japanese-style finger foods and the like).

The day was completed with a trip back to Kyoto and some Japanese fastfood. All-you-can eat white rice with a ginger stirfry, miso soup, tofu, and cabbage salad for $6 isn't that bad of a deal.

kouyou and Genteihin

Black Friday has come and gone with only a couple of shopping related deaths. I suppose it was all worth it if the people that took those two lives got the deals they were searching for. In all likelihood, the items they wanted were limited to only 5 products in stock and they were all gone by the time they raced to the back.

On a lighter note, I went off to the mountains that surround Kyoto for a little R&R. Unfortunately, it is impossible to get R&R in the mountains during kouyou or the period of Autumn leaves. As you can see from the picture, last weekend was pretty much the perfect time go see the leaves. Everyone has been piling into Kyoto for the last month waiting for this moment to come. Every weekend someone says it is the "peak" for travelers, but to those who try to navigate the streets of Kyoto or use its mass transit, it doesn't matter so much whether this week or last week was the peak because you are constantly inconvenienced.

This type of mass frenzy over something is very typical in Japan. I believe there might be a list drawn up and taught to kids when they are young about what they are supposed to do during certain times of the year. Just as certain as Japanese are to have a picnic under the Cherry Blossoms (called hanami) in the Spring, they go out in the Fall to check out the leaves.

These are just two of the many things that Japanese people must "enjoy" during the year. Just as you must go see leaves in the Fall, you must eat apples and chestnuts (chestnut fried rice is a common dish).

And if that is not enough for you, you have to indulge in the genteihin or products limited by space or time. Sorry if that sounds like something from Physics class; it's really not that complex. All it means is that you can only get takoyaki flavored snacks in Osaka (or in Ueno if you forget to buy something on your trip for your officemates) or rum-raisin flavored ice cream in the Fall.

For a country like America that wants everything right now, this sort of masochism is hard to comprehend. I for one am in love with kinako mochi. Kinako is a powder made from soy and mochi is almost of dumpling texture made from pounded rice. It may not sound good, but once you have the limited edition, only sold in the Fall, kinako mochi chocolates, you'll never get enough of them.

How can they only be sold in the Fall? What am I supposed to do in the Spring and Summer when I get a kinako mochi chocolate craving?

I guess I'm just going to have to wait. Like Fall leaves and Cherry Blossoms, I can really appreciate kinako mochi chocolates even more after the wait. Maybe there is a lesson to be had in genteihin and kouyou...as well as Cherry Blossoms and everything else....or maybe it is capitalism working at its best by creating frenzies and then marketing off of them. Kyoto can expect a huge payout from the crowds coming in to "see the leaves" and buy up all the genteihin to take back to their schools, offices, family, and/or friends. Not to mention the meibutsu, which is a related topic, but for another time.

Killer Cars: Of Bikes and Men

Well, since you got past the corny title that makes little sense (the name of a Radiohead B-side mixed with a play on a John Steinbeck book title), you deserve a piece of quality writing. That's why I'm suggesting you go now to some place where quality writing actually exists.
If you are still reading this blog, I'll treat you to what I like to call "road wars: battle between bikes and cars." Normal people in Kyoto call it "the daily commute."
Take a look at this video and try to tell me that my night commute home does not contain some risk of injury or death.

As you can see, the cars go pretty much right next to you since there aren't any sidewalks hanging around on these lonesome streets. All the sidewalks are for the big boys like Shijo Dori (street) or Marutamachi Dori. Bikes (as in bicycles) can travel on sidewalks, but you do so at great delay since Japanese people have a knack for walking right in front of you when you try to pass from behind them. Some say they have eyes on the back of their heads; I just say a lot of people can't or don't walk straight.

Regardless, you are left with the option of great delay (sidewalks) or possible death (streets).
As a professor in college once hammered into my head, always look for the third way. In this case, the third way are the side-streets. As mentioned above and shown in the video, they do not have sidewalks; however, they usually don't have as many cars on them as the video made it appear. That street I took that video on is full of taxi cabs picking up and dropping off clientele and maiko-san (geisha) from the different teahouses and upscale dining options that street has to offer.

The third way is convenient in that I can get pretty much anywhere in Kyoto in 20 minutes, much faster and cheaper than public transportation. The downside is that I almost pee my pants when a car honks at me 20 feet away when I'm already moving to the side of the road to let them pass (I constantly look over my shoulder to see what's coming). Those unruly drivers (probably the same people that pick their nose and spit in public....OK, enough stereotyping....although most, if not all, older men in Japan do so, and they are the drivers that honk at me) get welcomed with a little American hospitality....my long middle finger.

Merry Xmas

Merry Xmas from Kintama and the rest of Kyoto. OK, so it's a little early to celebrate Christmas, but that doesn't stop anyone in America or Japan from putting up Christmas decorations. This tree is located in Kyoto Station right near the Mister Donut (with the best donut in the world...the Pon d' Ring). It is already frequented by couples and non-couples who want to "enjoy" the holiday spirit. OK, so there is no holiday spirit in Japan.

What? Who is this bigot that took over the Kintama blog? Well, it's still the same guy, grumpy over the fact that he has two classes on Christmas day. Here's hoping a presentation doesn't get thrown on top of that. That salt would feel great on the wound....

Anyway, how do Japanese celebrate Christmas? They obviously put up decorations.

In Japan, Christmas is more of a dating holiday. Most common travel destinations are not family's homes, but rather Tokyo Disneyland, fancy restaurants, and the like. I would be expected to take my girlfriend to some date joint rather than bringing her home to my family...well, since it is a long commute home...going to see her family (cue scary music).

Instead of getting together on Christmas, people get together with their families around New Year's, a much bigger holiday in Japan (and one in which I don't have classes!). That day, they celebrate by eating osechi and various local variations of dishes. Older people also give younger kids money; and companies give their employees a nice bonus of roughly one month's salary.

It is also a time to get away from Japan and to go to some place warmer. In Japan, you only have 3 designated weeks for vacations. You also have some floating holidays, but it is frowned upon when you take them. It was hard for me to get away from work here in Japan when I had the flu. The doctor told me to take a week off, but I only took four days off; two of them were my "weekend" anyway.

The rush to get away creates airfare rates 3x their norms. I spent $1,500 to go to Thailand the year of the tsunami (Thank God I don't like beaches or I wouldn't be writing this blog today). I spent a third of that with 5 nights at a hotel included in October of 2006. (For those Thai history enthusiasts, you will remember that time as the end of the last coup.)

This time, Kintama will be doing something Japanese and saving up his little cash to visit his friends in Korea in February....Although Thailand is looking ripe for another coup.....

Japan Series: When is it time to let go?

Approaching the beginning of another college basketball season, in the midst of another pitiful season by the Cincinnati Bungles, who would think that professional baseball was still going on? The Japan Series (the World Series of Japan) just wrapped up yesterday with a thrilling Game 7 win by the Seibu Lions. They defeated the evil Yankees of Japan, the Yomiuri Giants, 3-2 in a thrilling come-from-behind series victory.

So what does that have to do with "letting go?" Well, I have a small insignificant tie to the last batter the Giants threw up against the Seibu pitcher with 2 outs in the bottom of the ninth of a one run game. The batter, Alex Ramirez, was one of my favorite players for my favorite Japanese baseball team, the Yakult Swallows. He left after last season for the hated Giants after contract dispute last season.

However, my connection to Mr. Ramirez goes one step beyond the team connection.

In Summer 2006, I went to Yokohama to watch a baseball game with a couple of friends. The day started off rather poorly with my vomiting in the bathroom of the train on the way down to Tokyo; the ill after-effects of those evil nomikai. I remember the day vividly because it turned out to be the last day I would ever see the friend I went and met.

Now that I have set you all up for big disappointment, I will tell you the end of these stories.

It was a rainy day, but the rain was light enough to get in this afternoon game. Right when people were giving up on the game (my Swallows were pounding the home team) and going home, I walked up to the outfield wall and started yelling all the clean spanish I knew at the Venezuelan born Ramirez. He responded by throwing the practice ball toward me (not because he was mad, but because he was giving it to me). It slipped in the rain, but he ran back to the wall (shaking his head in disgust at my butterfingers) and threw it back up to me. It was the first and only ball I've ever caught at a baseball game.

Now that you know my connection and his bitter contract dispute ending with him leaving his team of 7 years for the evil Giants, the question is when is it time to let go? When should I give up my anger/disappointment with his bitter departure? Should I have been happy or sad when he hit that grounder straight to the shortstop ending his first chance for a professional championsip?

(For those who don't think that Japanese baseball is professional, the Japanese won the World Baseball Classic, so they can't be that bad. I try to keep out of the debate enjoying the differences in the American/Japanese games instead of analyzing which is best.)

If you are still wondering why that day was the last day I saw that friend, it is because he divorced from his wife, and I am a friend of his wife's family effectively ending our relationship.

I Saw A Japanese Flag

And that may not mean anything to you. Speaking more on a serious topic this time, I promise to bring a lighter topic next time, such as my unending battle with Japanese cars on small windy streets, or perhaps the changing leaves including pictures of them.

However, this time, allow me to discuss Japanese nationalism.

An article appeared in the BBC today as a comment on the current firing of a Japanese Air Force (officially, the Air Defense Force since a bona fide army is outlawed by the Constitution under Article 9) for his "revisionist" comments on Japanese history.

Revisionism is a brand of social conservatism that at its core thinks Japan is the best thing since sliced bread. If you think that is natural for patriots, it may unsettle you to think that they also believe that Japan was the victim in WWII. They believe that the Nanjing Massacre, also known as the Rape of Nanking (spelling differs depending on which writing style you prefer in Chinese) in which upwards of 250,000 people were raped and killed over a 6 week period in 1937. It is reported that the Japanese embassy was right next door to an all girls school. The ambassadors inside pleaded with the Japanese government to put an end to the rape and slaughter while hearing the screams of Chinese students being raped and killed on a daily basis.

The General in charge of those forces retired after the incident calling it a national disgrace, shaved his head and chose to live out his days in a Buddhist Monastary. Those days were short as he was hung after the war while the true perpetrators of the crime, the battalion leaders etc., were allowed to live out their days.

When you consider incidents like these and the general neglect of acceptance by influential people in the Japanese government, it's easy to see why there are problems in Sino (Chinese)-Japanese relations. It's note even that these are the majority, but they are what one author called, a megaphone minority due to their high positions in the Japanese government. I'm willing to put Koizumi, Abe, Fukuda, and the newest PM Taro Aso in that group although Koizumi remains popular an people don't want to accept that aspect of him. These people are also the same leaders who want to change Article 9 to allow Japan to have an official army, one that would allow them to accrue military power equal to their economic power.

However, they are a minority. Most people in Japan follow the Pacifist crede, as the BBC article says, almost to naiveté. The displaying of flags is said to remind people of the days of the war and the nightmares it brought to people, not just in China, Korea, and SE Asia, but in Japan as well. Displaying of flags is largely limited to holidays, and since today is Culture day, they are being displayed in shopping areas and the like.

Japanese as a whole are pacificists, however, the megaphone minority acts as a reminder that the hawks are still around. The Chinese government uses these hawks to remind its people of the humiliation brought on to its people by the evil Japanese staking its legitimacy on a policy of hate.

In order for Sino-Japanese relations to warm in the future, this issue needs to be resolved. Unfortunately, it's not as easy as Japan issueing official apologies (as it has on numerous occasions). The Chinese government needs to introduce new ways to legitimize itself as the government of the people (possibly through democratic reforms at the local level so that the people don't feel like they are being ignored).

Japan also needs to come to terms with itself and act in a way that is more representative of its people (as it largely does). Competititon brought on by outside parties are working in that direction, but not necessarily in a constructive direction.

It's an exciting time to be in Asia.

Culinary Delights?

When you think of Japanese food, what do you think of? The usual, sushi, tempura, edamame, teriyaki chicken, and all those other things you might mistake for Thai since they are also offered at most Thai restaurants in Cincinnati. Whew...long sentence...

Well, how about a fascination with mayonnaise? Yes, that's right, mayo; white, creamy and tastes good on a BLT. How about mayo on pizza? In Japan, that's as common as Domino's pizza, Pizza-La, or any other pizza company you can think of operating here. With such flavors and Tuna and Mayo, potatoes and mayo, and of course, corn and mayo, how could you go wrong? The picture isn't the best, but you can see some of the pictures with white stripes crisscrossing on the otherwise delicious looking pies.

And, the fascination with mayo doesn't end with pizza. Before I go on, I must mention that when you buy mayo in Japan, it is not refrigerated. I believe you are supposed to refrigerate after opening, but that is no fun; at least that is what the convenience stores think. Convenience stores are as common as gas stations used to be in America 50 years ago. You can throw stones from one to the next from Kyushu all the way to Hokkaido (southern most island to northern most island). It is there where you can find different types of sandwiches and bento boxes for people on the go. It is also there where you can find things like hot dogs with mayo; bacon, mayo and corn in a flaky crust; mayo and corn pizza; and other mayo-drenched items too numerous to list here. In fact, I find a new mayo-drenched item every time I go to one....all sitting outside of refrigeration on a shelf.

So, the next time you think about your favorite Japanese food, think about mayonnaise. If you have trouble calling a Western creation Japanese, then pizza isn't American at all. Tempura was originally Portuguese and Katsudon was originally Dutch, so it's not the first time the Japanese have adapted Western food into "Japanese" food.

Evil Nomikai....Evil....

For those of you who are unfamiliar with Japanese culture, the concept of the nomikai will be strange....ok....maybe not that strange when put in simple terms. A nomikai literally means drinking engagement. It's that I was at one last night, probably will be attending a birthday party tonight, and have one tomorrow that may seem like a lot to some people.

In Japan as well as most Asian countries, it is important to show your face at such engagements because you are expected to. If you do not show up, you'll find yourself with a lot fewer friends than you had before. The exceptions are obvious: work.... okay....maybe the exception is obvious...it's pretty mandatory to go.

On a side note, the reason I disappeared for a little while is because of a minor injury to my leg last week while playing basketball. The tendons connecting this one arrogant muscle to the bone are in pain. I spent the first night in so much pain, that I couldn't sleep. I went to the doctor and got some drugs, but they weren't that effective. We think they recommend doses for people in the 5 foot range...I'm 192.7 cm not 170!

Anyway, I'm undergoing rehabili (rehabilitation in shortened Japanese form) which is applying sonogram to the injured areas to soften them up i.e. relax and heal. I hope I get back to running and hooping soon, but for the time being, I'm living in constant pain...

So, I've been drinking

As the title details, I have been drinking.

I had enough gin and tonics on an empty stomach to make my 192 centimeter (6' 4") frame and 92 kg (190 lbs.) body get a little tipsy.  Yes, that's right, tipsy; tipsy to the point where I didn't ride my bike home for fear of being pulled over for drunk driving.  I was reminded of the concept by the sign at the ramen shop that said, "Drunk driving Stop."  Ok, Ok, so only stop was in English, but you get the point.

My friend asked a philosophical question today that I thought I would share with anyone who considers their self a reader of my lowly blog.

"What happens to mail after it has past its re-delivery date?"

The whole story goes back a whole week or so ago when we both opened our bank accounts....at the post office.....the post office is a bank.....long story......  Anyhow, they said that they would deliver the bank book by mail directly to our mailbox if we had our names attached.  Well, our landlord didn't do it....and we don't have label makers handy, so it didn't get done.

So, fast-forward a week later; I got my bank book because I set a time online with the post office to drop off my book and was *gasp* actually home to receive it.  To know how little I'm home, I paid $5 in electricity last month.....  I'm never here..... (another long story)

My friend, and neighbor, told them to stick it in the box, but they require a signature.  The expiration date on the package has past (who knew they expired) and when she asked the guy at the post office where the mail went after the expiration date, he didn't know.

So, I've been wondering in my drunken state whether there is a mailbox heaven where undeliverable letters go.  Say those letters to Santa Claus that never make it to the North Pole because....let's face it.....Santa Claus can't live on water!!!  He's St. Nick not the Messiah...(I'm going to hell for that....)

Also, on the way home, I saw something I almost can't write...even in my drunken state....an older woman (70s) pulling up her diapers after pissing in a grate.....something I wish I never saw.....

To make matters worse....(it has no real relation to anything I've said so far), the blanket I bought kind of smells like dog spit....  I hung it outside to air-out and it came back as stinky as ever....

That's all from drunken Bryan...I hope you don't get turned off by this blog entry and come and visit again....  

Sumo's Death as a Sport: a Dying Canary in a Cave?

Looking at this picture, you may think that the sport of Sumo was dying because no one wants to become this big to fight in 30-second matches over the course a few months of a year.

Well, that would be wrong. Two Russian Sumo wrestlers were recently expelled for marijuana (Read Story). In a country where you can be stuck in a dark box for 5 years for smelling like marijuana, that is quite expectable.

However, the fact that only two Russian wrestlers that happened to be pretty good were expelled is a little fishy. When I saw sumo back in 2006, I told my students all about it during our "Lobby Talk" sessions when we talked about our weekends etc. I told one older gentleman who plainly said, "I don't like sumo wrestling anymore. I don't like how foreigners are taking the sport over."

Speaking to a foreigner like that is pretty shocking in a country where people apologize to you when you make a mistake yourself (as if they were to blame for your own stupidity). But, it is unsurprising to a foreigner who has been here for as long as I have. People who are here long enough get tired of being "gaijin." Gaijin is a shortened form of the word "gaikokujin" or foreigner and is used in negative contexts such as, "that stupid foreigner talks too loudly."

Some people really want to get to know you and talk to you as a guest in their country, but others look at you with a gaze that would kill you if it could. When I sit down in public spaces, people will get up and move somewhere else or even stand so that they don't catch the gaijin cooties. (On a personal hygiene note, I bathe and brush my teeth regularly and put on lots of deodorant and eat lots of mints).

This racial prejudice is extremely dangerous in a country with a birthrate of 1.3 children/family and in danger of having an overburdened healthcare system as the population ages with no one to support it.

Still, gaijin....gaikokujin... only account for less than %3 of the total population and are located mostly in large urban areas such as Tokyo or my home here in Kyoto. Sumo wrestling may not be exciting enough for the younger generation, but I believe those that are turned off by a Mongolian or Hawaiian Yokozuna are the danger to Japan showing the larger problem inhibiting Japan from growing. Racial discrimination is a problem that Japan will need to tackle to cure it from itself and its low birthrate problem.

By the way, not only did the wrestler in the picture win his match, he was also awarded a trophy for largest man-boobs...that was until they compared them to mine.

Moving into Kyoto

Walking up the street toward school, I was committing a cardinal sin in Japan: walking and drinking.  This time, I actually felt a little bad about it though.  For some reason, this neighborhood resting in a nook between a temple and a busy thoroughfare seemed venerable.  As I sipped on my CC Lemon (packed with more than enough Vitamin C than one needs in a day), I took in my surroundings.  Every time I went up this street before, I rode my bike zipping past pedestrians and stopped cars full of goods to deliver to the local restaurants.

Now it's not uncommon in Japan to fail to recognize small shops on the side of the road; they look indistinguishable from residences in some cases.  Honestly, I don't know how some of them stay in business since they are so poorly marked and usually offer similar food products as the next poorly-marked bum a couple doors down.  When talking about perishable food products, this is not the type of place you will find me chowing down on local Kyoto delights.  You'll find me at the other, well-marked restaurant with people visibly going and coming from their doors.

So, as I sipped on my CC Lemon and all of its vitamin C goodness, I gazed down a little side street nestled between a row of shops and a large building (probably a temple) with a large wall around it.  Down the street were two maiko-san (like geisha) gazing back at me as I looked like the dumb American sloppily gulping down one of Japan's fine beverages (and all of its vitamin C goodness).  Slightly embarrassed, I put the drink down by my side as I continued on my way.

I had no clue at the time because this is Kyoto on a holiday (yesterday was a day off for the beginning of Fall...don't be jealous fellow Americans, school is not yet in service).  In fact, I soon passed another gentleman dressed in "traditional" Japanese clothing as he headed toward the temple I mentioned.  Also, this neighborhood is similar to most in Japan with political posters plastered on walls and gates.  As my new friend Hitoshi told me, Kyoto is known to vote Communist in local elections to break up the LDP's monopoly of power in Japan.  Voting Communist is like voting Green in California where Green Party officials actually make it into office.  The posters in this neighborhood struck a cord with me since the slogan appeals to the same peace clause in the Japanese Constitution I've been slaving over this summer.

However, as I returned that way at night.  My guide and new friend Hitoshi told me that this street is one of the last remaining streets where you go and have tea while maiko-san come and visit you.  If you ever saw the movie Memoirs of a Geisha, you know that they bounce from place to place not just entertaining at one teahouse.  It may interest you to know that the 21st century preferred means of transportation is the taxi.  I usually see empty cabs driving up and down that street (I had thought for no reason), but I have yet to see one with a maiko-san in it.  I will try to take a picture and post it if I can.

Tomorrow, I will go to the "Entrance Ceremony" and then meet my future thesis advisor.  Wish me luck.